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Friday, March 30, 2012

Equipment for Adventure Nordic

One Christmas morning when I was a kid there was a long skinny box under the tree. I could barely hold back my excitement; I just knew it was a pair of downhill skis. But after I ripped off the wrapping paper and tore open the box, my heart dropped. Inside the box were cross-country skis. My dreams of swishing effortlessly down snow-covered mountains were crushed, or so I thought.

As an adolescent I dreamed of winter adventures to Vermont ski resorts. Unfortunately, I lived in New Jersey where the sport of downhill skiing and destination ski resorts required disposable income – something, at the time, my family lacked. Yet, my mother had been a skier in college and understood my love of winter and the outdoors, and wanted me to be a skier too. My mom was also smart, practical, and broke. Her answer — cross-country skis.

For a couple of months each winter, the nearby New Jersey Highlands would hold enough snow to allow cross-country skiing. Even better, the biggest winter storms allowed for the occasional ski right out our backdoor.  And I didn’t need to drive to Vermont or buy expensive lift tickets. 

After High School, in 1986, I headed west to Colorado where I upgraded to heavier Nordic gear: metal edged skis, leather telemark boots, and cable bindings. A few years later I landed in Jackson Hole and in 1993 was one of the first to don plastic telemark boots.

The author skiing in Grand Teton National Park, 1993
Photo by Tom Turiano

Today, I still find Nordic ski equipment highly efficient, versatile, and my preferred means for traveling through and over snow covered mountains and wilderness.

For me, skiing has never been all about the down or all about the up. Skiing is all about travel, exploration and adventure. Sometimes this involves descending steep couloirs and avalanche paths. Other times it involves slogging miles across flats. Often, even ideally, it involves both.

Nordic skiing is a fast and fun way of traveling over flat terrain. On steeper terrain, Nordic or telemark skiing, using the proper technique and equipment, is quick and enjoyable for both the ascent and descent. Nordic equipment that’s simple, light and dependable allows skiers the ability to proficiently negotiate diverse terrain and conditions. 

Spring crust skiing in Alaska
Video by Tim Kelley

The record times for several of North America’s classic high-mountain ski traverses have been made using Nordic equipment. Both California’s High Sierra Route and Canada’s Wapta Ski Traverse have been done in a day using skate skis. In Alaska, Tim Kelley has been a leader in this style, which is often referred to as “crust skiing.” Tim maintains a website called Alaska Performance Backcountry Skiing that includes comprehensive information on the best Nordic equipment for crust skiing.


2011 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic
Video by Luc Mehl

While inspiring, using skate skis in the high mountains relies on specific snow conditions and avoiding steep and technical terrain.  For this reason, the equipment of choice for participants in the infamous Alaska Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic is often the beefier NNN BC that includes boots with a buckle and skis with metal edges. Similarly, Andrew Skurka chose mid-weight Nordic gear when skiing 1,317 miles across the wilds of Alaska in 58 days.


Andrew Skurka skiing across the central Alaska Range 

The next step up in Nordic equipment falls into the category of telemark or what can be termed “Nordic Mountaineering.” Lightweight telemark equipment provides a means to competently negotiate steep, technical mountain terrain while still reaping the benefits of a Nordic ski rig when traversing flats and undulating terrain.


  Amy McCarthy skiing across the Teton Range

Lightweight and touring friendly telemark equipment is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain. Unfortunately, for the last 20 years the focus of research and development has been on creating heavier and bulkier telemark equipment, which is ill-suited for efficient backcountry travel. For intrepid Nordic mountaineers, however, a few options remain.

Boots


Over millions of years of evolution Homo sapiens evolved as bipeds with a complex anatomy that capitalizes on the exchange and storage of kinetic and potential energy, allowing improved efficiency for long-distance travel. The tendons, muscles and joints within our feet, including our Metatarsophalangeal (MTP ) Joint, are integral components in the biomechanics of human propulsion.


By allowing the human propulsion system to fully function, Nordic-style boots, including some telemark boots, are highly efficient for traveling over flat and variable terrain. The ergonomics of Nordic skiing provide the additional benefit of fewer injuries, compared to alpine and downhill skiing. 

Currently, the lightest Nordic boots that offer adequate control for steep descents are constructed with the traditional 75mm Nordic Norm, known as a “duckbill.”  Essentially, there are three manufactures: Fisher, Garmont and Scarpa. These boots vary from single boots to plastic double boots. All have double buckles.


The Fisher BCX 875 is the lightest and only single non-plastic boot in the class. Fisher incorporates Thinsulate Insulation, hinged plastic cuffs, two buckles, and torsionally rigid sole in a comfortable and light boot that’s remarkably warm and sturdy. The boots weigh in at 4.3 pounds per pair.

In 1993, Scarpa introduced the Terminator, a plastic telemark boot that forever changed the industry. It provided unprecedented turning control. Unfortunately, the offspring of the original Terminator became increasingly heavy, stiff and inefficient for touring. For a few seasons, Scarpa produced the T3 telemark boot with only two buckles and a respectable weight of 5.7 pounds per pair. However, Scarpa’s lightest touring boot currently, the T4, weighs in at 6.5 pounds per pair. These boots are too stiff to comfortably kick and glide for long distances.

  Scarpa N1?

Interestingly, Scarpa has the capacity to produce high-performance, lightweight telemark boots, but has yet to do so. The Scarpa F1 Rando Racing Boot is available with a flexible sole and bellows like a telemark boot. Depending on the model, size and how much you’re willing to spend, the F1 weighs about 5 pounds per pair – the pricey carbon fiber model weighs only 4.4 pounds per pair. With a much higher cut than the T3 and T4, the F1 promises greater turning control, possibly at the cost of being comfortable while kicking and gliding. If Scarpa ever constructed a 75mm Nordic Norm model of the F1, it would be the lightest high-performance plastic telemark boot ever made. 


  

Currently, my preferred boot for extended travel over complex snow-covered terrain is the Garmont Excursion. The Excursion is a soft boot designed with classic touring or “kick and glide” in mind. There is no mechanism to lock the cuff in a forward lean position, an omission that saves weight, expense, and possibly ACL injuries. The buckles, straps and inner boot are light and simple. Weighing in at 6.25 pounds per pair, the Excursion is capable of handling surprisingly steep terrain and demonstrates that big, tall, stiff plastic boots are unnecessary. Turning lower, lighter, softer boots does require using your ankles and feet, not just your knees — a style of skiing that requires more skill, but many find highly enjoyable.

Bindings


Cable bindings suck. Cables inhibit heal lift, wasting energy when climbing and touring.  Heel resistance may be advantageous during descents, but creates a major liability during the rest of a ski tour. To mitigate this, several companies manufacture cable telemark bindings that release to create a free pivot for climbing. The Voile Switchback is my favorite. Reliable and relatively simple, the 3-pound (per pair) Switchback is lighter than its competition.

Voile Switchback

If you prefer lean and clean equipment, a traditional 3-pin binding is a great and lightweight option. Both Voile and Rottefella offer 3-pin bindings that weigh under a pound (per pair) and are compatible with thick-soled (14-19mm) telemark boots. Both 3-pin bindings have three tension settings for the toe bail. The first setting provides minimum resistance, allowing for effortless heal lift when climbing. For descending, the toe bail can be tightened to provide increased resistance and more control.

              Rottefella Super Telemark          Voile 3-pin with Detachable Cable                 

When descending a breakable crust or extremely steep terrain, heel cables and the resistance they provide become desirable. For these reasons, the Voile 3-Pin Cable Telemark Binding is my favorite. The cables are detachable and 95% of the time reside inside my pack, or at home in my garage. I only deploy them when conditions require it. A pair of cables, when deployed, add 13 ounces to the 1-pound per pair 3-pin bindings.



A benefit of Nordic ski boots in undulating terrain is being able to climb hills without the need for heel lifters, allowing for fast transitions. The bend or bellow of a telemark boot allows a skier to weight their metatarsus (the ball of the foot) and transfer their weight into the ski, skin, and snow without any weight on the heel. During long climbs, however, this can fatigue calf muscles and heel lifters are advantageous. For this reason, I install 58mm Voile Climbing Wires in the heal plates of most of my skis.


 
Custom Steel Toe Plate

Designed to be durable, the pins in 3-pin binding are made of steel. These steel pins are hard on the rubber and aluminum 3-pin holes. Inevitably, over time, the holes stretch and, in extreme cases, completely fail. To mitigate this issue, I had a local machinist fabricate thin steel plates fastened with t-bolts for the toes of my boots.


Skis


My grandfather taught me to “use the right tool for the right job.” And like a good toolbox, I have a variety of skis for a variety of snow conditions and applications. My toolbox includes fat skis for yo-yoing powder to dinky randonee racing skis for epic spring tours to Classic Nordic skis for high mileage.

The "Tool Box"

Important attributes to consider when selecting a ski include weight, durability, width, length, and camber. For long tours, weight (or lack there of) equates to efficiency and is therefore a serious consideration. Efficiency, however, is reduced when a ski breaks or is inadequate for the terrain. With this in mind, other attributes must also be considered.


If I had to choose one pair of mountaineering skis, I would choose a lightweight yet mid-fat all mountain ski, like the Movement X-Logic. The 176cm X-Logic (127-88-115mm) weighs in at 1,100 grams per ski and is described as “a real 4x4 of the ski world.” Utilizing a carbon reinforced wood core, the durability of Movement X-Logic may be unmatched in its weight class.



Fortunately, I have a complete toolbox that includes skinny ultra-light skis, like the Movement Fish-X. These 162 cm (93-65-79mm) skis weigh in at only 700 grams per ski, and are my first choice for spring tours on consolidated snow.


Domestically, Goode produces a line of ultra-light skis with wood cores reinforced with carbon. Previously, Goode skis were constructed of 100% carbon fiber, but in 2012 the company changed their construction to include wood cores. I’m a happy owner of several pairs of their older and lighter pure carbon fiber skis, including my favorite fat powder skis, which at 183cm (145-116-132) only weigh 1,320 grams per ski.


Additional ski manufacturers with a long history of producing a variety of quality skis for touring and mountaineering include Trab, Asnes and Madshus. Especially appealing are the Asnes Storetind Carbon SL and the Trab Duo Freerando Light. Hagen skis have recently become available within the United States and are comparable in weight to the Movement X-Series and Goode Carbon skis, but are considerably less expensive. Hagen skis save weight and expense with an “Air Superlight” core. Therefore, they are less durable than skis with more reliable wood cores. 

Camber 

Camber is the upward curvature built in the body of the ski. It can be described as the space between the un-weighted ski base and a flat contact surface. Camber is an important consideration when selecting a ski. Skis designed primarily for descending have standard 6-8mm or less of camber, allowing a ski to go flat with minimal pressure from the skier. This makes for easier turning. All of the skis referenced above are constructed with a standard camber and therefore are proficient for turning and descents.



Classic Nordic skis have a high curvature or double camber, characterized by a pronounced arch or a high central section and a “wax pocket” underfoot. For double camber skis it takes a certain amount of pressure to get halfway closed and then a much greater pressure to press the ski flat so that the wax pocket is pressed into the snow for traction during the kick phase of classic striding. Double camber skis are ideal for travel over horizontal terrain. The double camber, however, does cost performance during descents. Some touring skis are available with one and a half camber, a fair compromise for both touring and turning. Mastery of the telemark turn is helpful to adeptly turn this type of ski. 

Nordic touring skis are available with metal edges, allowing skilled skiers the ability turn them on moderate terrain even when conditions are firm. I have several pairs of Nordic touring skis, including the Fisher S-Bound and Madshus Glitterland. I choose these skis when the horizontal distance of a tour eclipses the vertical.


Width


When choosing the width of a ski, it’s important to consider the composition of the snow and the type of boot you will be using. Consolidated snow, associated with warmer maritime climates and spring conditions, makes for easy travel and highly efficient touring. Skiing on consolidated snow does not require a wide ski. Skis with widths of 70mm or less underfoot are normally sufficient.


The Science of Snow
Video by My Planett
 
Unconsolidated snow is typically associated with either fresh powder or cold continental climates. Continental snowpacks often contain a high temperature gradient resulting in un-bounded faceted snow crystals with the consistency of granular sugar. In these conditions, wider skis with more surface area or “float” are often advantageous. The downside of wider skis, in addition to the obvious increase in weight, is the need for bigger boots. Increased leverage is needed to edge wider skis. This is especially true when the width of a ski exceeds the width of a ski boot.




Sidecut is the arc that creates the edge of a ski. A ski without any sidecut is completely straight; a ski with lots of side cut has an hourglass figure. Moderate sidecut can be helpful in turning a ski. Too much sidecut can cost performance when skating and touring.

Skins


Mohair skins are the lightest and provide the best glide to grip ratio. Black Diamond’s Glidelite Skins are my favorite. While I prefer pure mohair skins, several of my regular ski partners favor the increased durability of the mohair-nylon mix. Mohair-nylon skins also grab better on icy snow. I recommend forgoing tail clips.  In my experience they seldom stay on. If the glue fails and additional fastening is needed, a standard ski strap is more than adequate.

 

On many tours, especially in the spring, I find kicker skins not only adequate but also preferable. Kicker skins are roughly half the weight of full-length skins and provide significantly better glide. By not covering the front or shovel of a ski less drag is created when ascending. Combined with ski crampons, kicker skins can climb impressively steep slopes. Kicker skins on double camber Classic skis occupy the “wax pocket” creating the ultimate glide to grip ratio. 

Ski Crampons 


Two companies manufacture ski crampons compatible with telemark boots and bindings. The Voile Ski Crampon is a simple and lightweight option. However, it is attached in a fixed position, meaning it does not retract when stepping forward. This does not allow a ski to slide forward. Instead, the ski needs to be lifted in the air on each step — not very efficient.




B & D Ski Gear, a small manufacturer in California, sells an ingenuous telemark crampon that is hinged and does retract. The B & D crampons do require a mounting block and a 0.5 cm lifter under the binding. My trusted ski tech fabricated lifters from a polyethylene cutting board.

Poles 


Komperdell manufactures a variety of quality and lightweight adjustable Carbon Touring Poles. The C2 Carbon Power Lock at 195 grams per pair is my favorite. On some trips I do use the 214 gram three-piece C3 Carbon Power Lock. While some believe the added weight of an adjustment mechanism is superfluous, I find the extra grams a worthy investment. When collapsed, the C3 poles easily fit inside my pack. I’m also in the habit of shortening my poles on climbs and lengthening them on flats. Next winter Komperdell will offer an adjustable carbon skate skiing pole called the Speedy Vario Carbon.

 
Black Diamond also produces an adjustable Pure Carbon Fiber Ski Pole. Constructed of thicker carbon fiber, these poles, at 550 grams, are twice the weight, yet may be a better option for those prone to breaking gear. As previously discussed, when gear fails, any weight savings and increased efficiency are more than lost.



Black Diamond also manufactures the best ski pole with a self-arrest grip. The Whippet Self-Arrest Ski Pole has an integrated chromoly ice axe pick. It weighs 395 grams and is required equipment for any ski mountaineer navigating terrain with consequences.
 

Examples: Equipment and Application


In early April I will be participating in an unsupported cross-country ski race across the central Brooks Range in northern Alaska. The 200-mile course has only 8,000 feet of vertical gain. Therefore, the horizontal eclipses the vertical.

 
Poles: Komperdell Speedy Vario Carbon
Weight: 11.5 pounds per pair

Nordic Mountaineering: The Beartooth-Absaroka High Traverse Field is required.Angle brackets (<>) are not allowed in responses. All HTML formatting should be removed from responses before submitting.

Certain e-mail addresses, for example 'John Doe <jdoe@doe.com>' should be reformatted as 'jdoe@doe.com'.


In late May and early June I will be attempting a complex ski traverse along the jagged crest of the northern two-thirds of the Absaroka-Beartooth mountain chain on the Wyoming-Montana border. The 130-mile route will include nearly 40,000 feet of vertical gain.


Weight: 11.5 pounds per pair


Ski Mountaineering: The Haute Route


Possibly the world’s most popular ski traverse, the classic Haute Route starts near Chamonix, France and ends in Saas Fee, Switzerland. The 110-mile route is heavily glaciated and technical, and includes more than 20,000 feet of vertical gain.

Skis: 182 cm Goode Carbon 74
Weight: 15.5 pounds per pair

As I grew, the mountains seemed to shrink. Skiing became civilized. Something was missing—something beautiful and exotic and free with a measure of uncertainty. I felt a need to put excitement back into my skiing. That’s when adventure skiing was created; imaginative explorations with small, fast, self-sufficient teams on skis with free-heeled bindings.” – Ned Gillette



19 comments:

  1. Great post. I wish some stock, light poles adjusted out to 160cm or so for skating.

    Some of those weights have to be per ski, not per pair.

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    1. Next winter Komperdell will be selling the Speedy Vario Carbon adjustable skate poles that extend to 160cm. They sent me a pair to use for the AMWSC.

      For boots I meant per boot not per pair. I fixed that. Thanks for the catch.

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    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. The best explanation of the gear required for this often overlooked segment of backcountry skiing ever. Thank you Forrest.

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  3. Forrest, content of this quality should cost money. As the popularity of XCD (cross country downhill) rises a nearly definitive look at the various types of equipment as you've listed here is invaluable to the uninitiated.

    I got back into nordic skiing this winter after having taken a ten year hiatus during which I focused solely on snowboarding and splitboarding and spent many hours researching my gear choices. It's nice to see my decisions mirror some of your gear choices above given your knowledge on the subject.

    I'm particularly interested in hearing more about your A/B traverse in May. The beauty of that area when covered in snow and totally lacking in other travelers is nearly unmatched.

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  4. I love you, man! Light touring rules....some do the nice sheltered valleys, some do the high exposed ridgelines! I love my excursions and my lite dog bindings, and the leather and three pines even more.

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  5. Great post, Forrest. Wish you had written it before my AK trip though, since as a newcomer to ski touring I had to learn this info on my own from scattered sources.

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  6. I love the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness... be sure to give us a full report of that one!

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  7. Excellent essay. I do a lot of backcountry skiing, usually on regular, non-metal edged skis and plain (non-BC) boots. This means that the terrain has to be fairly moderate and the snow has to be good. When the going gets tough, I tend to fall down.

    Generally speaking, despite the lack of control, I really like skiing with the really light setup. A big part of this is the boots. I much prefer the softer boots. Of the skis without metal edges, I managed to get skis with the most sidecut, so I'm able to stretch the envelope with the flimsy gear.

    So, I'm curious as to your experience with bigger skis and flimsier boots. In other words, have you ever found that the boot isn't supportive enough for a particular ski? If so, how did it fail? Was it worse than if you had skinnier skis, or was it just not as good as if you had more supportive boots? What are factors that go into make a ski difficult to handle without firmer boots? If so, are there skis that might lend themselves to stretching the envelope?

    For particulars, I have a pair of moderate metal edged skis (Atomic Rainiers) that I pair with BC Boots. I also have a brand new Randonee setup to go along with much bigger skis (Rossignol 125s). I wonder what would happen if I tried different combinations (Rainiers with plain cross country boots and bindings and the Rossignol BC 125 with BC Boots)?

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    1. You will have trouble with edge control when trying to make turns of firm snow with flimsy boots and wide skis. It is possible to edge with flimsy boots and skinny skis. Generally speaking the wider the ski the bigger the boot. Snow conditions and skill are also important.

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  8. Wow, what a thorough review of the various options available to use backcountry skiers. This is the single most thorough article I've read about the subject. Thank you for taking the time to put this together!

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  9. The weights are wrong on those boots...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Mark you are correct. The weights are for a pair not per boot. I fixed that. Thanks for pointing it out.

      Delete
  10. Hi Forrest,
    I loved reading this piece! Well written!

    Merlen Hogg
    rescon

    ReplyDelete
  11. I came across your blog. Its really nice and very useful QR information. Thanks for sharing this article...


    Discountskitubesandgear | http://www.discountskitubesandgear.com.au/


    ReplyDelete
  12. Nice article about skis and few other skiing equipment. Your effort to describe all the equipment broadly is really appreciable. When skiing over the snows, hooded winter jackets are also a very much important equipment as well as the the boots and the skis for the skiers. You should go through on that also. Overall it was a very good post about skiing and the equipment.

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  13. Hi Forrest!
    Thanks for all the amazing info! I was wondering if you have ever used the B&D shift plates to adjust tele binding position, change out bindings, or climbing wires? I was thinking it might be nice to be able to do this on a pair of Fischer S-Bound 112 with voile 3 Pin Cable Bindings. Thanks in advance for any advice!

    ReplyDelete