Darhad Ski Traverse, Mongolia

Lunch Break, Ulaan Tiaga

As part of a research expedition organized by Adventurers and Scientists for Conservation with support from the National Geographic Society, The Ring of Darhad Research Expedition spent 24 days skiing 230 miles through northern Mongolia.  The expedition conducted a systematic snow track survey of wildlife with a particular interest in wolverine.

The Darhad Region is named after the regions indigenous nomads, the Darkhad. The surrounding Ulaan Taiga Mountains are also home to the Tsaatan, a small tribe of Tuvan reindeer herders. Traveling through this remote montane ecosystem is as much a cultural journey as a wilderness experience. 

Day 1

Driving across a frozen Lake Hovesgol

We'd originally planned to begin and end our ski traverse at the small village of Ulaan Uul. However, the lack of snow in the Horidol Sardag Mountains made skiing and snow tracking impractical. Instead we began our ski traverse further north near Jigley Pass. As a consolation prize we drove across a Lake Hovesgol in a massive Soviet era truck. Fortunately the lake ice was several meters thick.

A Mongolian Herders Winter Cabin,  Lake Hovsgol

East of Jigley Pass we were welcomed by local Darkhad herders into their winter cabin for a lunch of freshly chopped horse meet and noodles. Many of the Mongolian herders from the Darhad Valley find winter refuge in the snow free pasture on the western shores of Lake Hovsgol. The region's weather typically comes from the west and the Lake Hovsgol's location to the east of the high mountains of the Horidol Sardag and Ulaan Taiga means it's in the rain shadow and therefore relatively snow free throughout the winter.  

Jim Harris enjoys an evening ski on the Hadjiron River

Just east of Jigley Pass we began our 230-mile ski tour on the frozen Hadjiran River. Like many of the rivers in Northern Mongolia, the Hadjiran was covered in immense sheets of aufeis. Common during the winter in arctic and subarctic environments, aufeis is formed from warm ground water seeping to the surface where it succumbs to frigid winter air. Aufeis makes a fast traveling surface as well as a convenient place to fill water bottles.

Day 2

Heading up the Hadjiran Valley

Day 3

Wolverine Scat

One of the primary purposes of the expedition was to survey the area for wolverine and collect DNA if possible. This was a huge success. We found wolverine tracks in nearly every drainage and successfully collected 29 potential DNA samples including over 20 scats. DNA analysis will be used to determine the genetic relationship of Mongolian wolverine with wolverine populations in Eurasia and North America. 

Rebecca Watters, Gregg Treinish, and Jason Wilmot warm themselves by the campfire

While our route often took us above timberline we chose our camps strategically and often enjoyed the warmth of a fire. This was a good thing since the evening temperatures often dipped below zero.

Day 4

Photographer Jim Harris scouts our route through the Hodon River Drainage

Crossing an unnamed pass beween the Hodon and Jaraj Rivers

Located in the center of Asia, Mongolia has a continental climate and therefore weather characterized by hot summers, very cold winters, and little rain or snow. The lack of atmospheric moisture also drove dramatic daily temperature swings from near 0° F in the morning to over 30° F in the afternoon. During these warm afternoons we often observed increased cloud cover and occasional snow flurries. In April the Darhad averages 6cm of moisture, falling as snow.

Photographer Jim Harris studies a Soviet Military Map

To navigate we used 1:200,000 Soviet Military Topographic Maps. Prior to the collapse of communism, the Soviet Military produced quality topographic maps for the entire surface of the Earth. The result is an extensive collection of standardized maps at various scales including 1:1,000,000, 1:500,000 and 1:200,000 maps for most of Eurasia, North Africa and North America. Even more detailed 1:100,000 and 1:50,000 scale maps are available for select parts of Eurasia including Mongolia. These maps are available at varying quality (jpg) for free at maps.vlasenko.net or as higher quality (GIF) from the University of Georgia for a small fee.

Jim Harris scouts our route down the South Fork of the Jaraj River

Jim Harris is an outdoor photographer extraordinaire. This was our fourth adventure together. Having met in Antarctica in 2011, Jim and I have since skied across the Northern Absaroka of Wyoming and Montana together as well completed the River of Return Packrafting Loop in central Idaho. Jim is a brilliant photographer and a highly skilled and enjoyable backcountry companion. It’s refreshing to see a photographer of his caliber capture quality images with a minimal amount of equipment. I hope someday Jim will forgive me for requiring he use Nordic ski equipment.

Jim Harris negotiates a steep and icy tributary of the Jaraj River

Day 5

Gregg Trienish examines wolverine tracks and scat

In 2009, after walking along the Andes from the Equator to Terra Del Fuego, Gregg Trienish was named 2009 National Geographic Adventurer of the Year. After this ambitious trek across South America, Gregg spent five years in Montana honing his skills as a professional tracker. Even more ambitious and commendable, Gregg has since combined his passion for adventure and science by founding Adventurers and Scientists for Conservation that “is dedicated to improving the accessibility of scientific knowledge through partnerships between outdoor enthusiasts and scientists.”

A yak carries a young Darkhad nomad on their annual spring migration

Serendipity found us in the Jaraj River Valley during the spring migration of nomadic herders.  In much of Mongolia nomadic herders now use modern trucks to assist in their seasonal migrations across the desert steppe. However, rugged mountains requiring herders to negotiate high passes ill-suited for mechanized travel surround the Darhad. In the  TV series “Tribe”  the BBC’s Bruce Perry documents the Darkhad's annual migration over Jarai Pass.

 Mongolian Horses

Having changed little since the 12^th Century when Genghis Khan founded the Mongol Empire, the stocky Mongol horse is bred to be sure-footed over rugged terrain. Horses remain central to Mongolian culture and are indicators of wealth, prosperity, and pride.

A proud Darkhad Nomad

Historically women contributed significantly to Mongolia’s spirituality, economy and political leadership.  And this is unlikely to change. Today, independent and strong-willed Mongolian women comprise 70% of university students and 90% of language students. They are better educated and speak more languages than Mongol men. The thousands of women who run small businesses drive the country's economy.

A Nomadic Durkhad Home

The Ger (yurt) is the traditional dwelling of Mongolian nomads and continues to be widely used in both rural and urban areas. Like the horse, the basic structure of the Ger has changed little since the times of Genghis Khan. Covered by wool felt the circular wooden frame is easy to collapse and assemble again. These warm and pleasing structures can be constructed in under an hour and easily transported by horse, camel, yak, or utility vehicle.

Day 6

A Nomadic Darkhad Herder and his daughter

During the Soviet era communism offered basic security to the nomadic herders. Today however, many nomads rely entirely on their livestock and many are considered to live in poverty. In an effort to modernize, government policies encourage children from the countryside to attend college.

A Mongol Horse and its Rider

Gregg shows of his digital photography

Some argue the Nomads would benefit from modernization.  Improving transportation and communication systems could aid in resource management. No doubt, more access to better healthcare would improve the quality of their lives.

Future iPhone owners?

A Yak pulling a travois loaded with a young goat or kid

Yaks and goats provide an important source of cash for nomadic herders. Mongolia provides 20% of the world's cashmere wool and goats are the source. Goats, however, are more voracious eaters than other livestock—they even consume the root of the grass thereby permanently killing it.  Goats and the cashmere industry are often blamed for the widespread degradation and desertification of Mongolian rangeland. Yaks, in addition to being a source of milk and transport, provide wool for warm and sturdy garments.

Horses migrate down the Jaraj River Valley

Historically land in Mongolia has been held in common—it was delightful not to cross a single fence during the 230 miles we traveled by foot and ski. Today, however, some argue privatization is needed to support large-scale agriculture that, they contend, would be more competitive and profitable.

Sheep as a source of mutton are important and favored sources of food

Small nomadic family groups don't have the scale to deal with unpredictable weather and unreliable pasture. An alternative to large-scale industrial agriculture may be the formation of cooperatives that could provide the small nomadic families both bargaining power and security.

Bactrian camels

Indigenous to Mongolia the two-humped Bactrian camel was domesticated over three thousand years ago and is as fast as a packhorse (3 mph) with three times the carrying capacity (450-pounds). The camel can function in minus twenty-degree temperatures and each year may produce over 14 pounds of wool and 150 gallons of milk. And like all critters in Mongolia, they taste good.

Jason Wilmot witnesses the migration

Wolverine expert Jason Wilmot was invaluable as a biologist during the expedition. Back in the North America, Jason was instrumental in the Glacier National Park Wolverine Project and was lead field biologist for the Absaroka-Beartooth Wolverine Project in Yellowstone National Park. Jason is a kick-ass skier with years of backcountry wilderness experience. Having known each other for years this was our first big adventure together. Getting to know Jason better was one of the highlights of the trip.

Day 7

Jarai Pass

Jarai and Utrag Pass provide access for wildife and well as Nomads and their stock to winter range around Lake Hovsgol and summer pasture in the Darhad.

Utrag Pass

Ibex are rumored to inhabit the barren slopes surrounding Utrag Pass. While no ibex were sighted, the expedition did record a probable snow leopard track. Ibex are known to be an important prey species for snow leopard. Western scientists believe snow leopards were extirpated from the area, yet the local Darkhad believe they endure.

Ovoo, Utrag Pass

An ovoo is a type of shamanistic rock cairn found at the top of mountain passes that serve as both landmarks and places to worship mountains and sky. Some ovoos are used for Buddhist ceremonies as well. To ensure a safe journey when travelling, it is customary to stop and circle an ovoo three times in clockwise direction. Rocks are frequently picked up from the ground and added to the ovoo. Offerings in the form of sweets, money, milk, or vodka are also made.

Religion in the Darhad region is a blend of shamanism and Tibetan Buddhism.  Religion (including ovoo adulation) during Mongolia's communist period was officially prohibited, but secretly people continued to worship. Today, traditional Shamanism is experiencing a slow but steady revival. 

Day 9

A Mongolian Ger and corrals

One fascinating atribute of Mongolian culture is the blending of old and new technologies and customs. Men riding on motorcycles often wear a traditional deel or overcoat. Likewise, it is common for gers to have solar panels and satellite television. 

Day 10

A Tsaathan Reindeer Herder

Our first resupply was packed in by a Tsaatan Reindeer herder. The Tsaatan or Dukha are a small tribe of 200 to 400 hundred Tuvan reindeer herders inhabiting northern Mongolia.  The Tsaatan ride, breed, milk, and live off of reindeer.  Tsaatan culture is well documented the award winning film Tracking The White Reindeer.

Tsaatan Reindeer

A Tsaatan Rendeer Herder

Like the Tuvan people in the nearby Altai Mountains, the Tsaatan have traditionaly used a ski known as the Hok. The Hok is the inspiration behind Altai Skis. My choice for skis was the Madhus Eon mounted with a Voile 3-Pin Telemark Binding, which provided the ideal balance between touring and turning capabilities.

Reindeer Packing our Resupply

Reindeer are the ideal pack animal when traveling on snow. They can carry over 80 pounds and their large feet act like snowshoes.

Day 11

Skiing towards the Russian Border,  Jigneg River

North and west of the Ulaan Tiaga is the Republic of Tuva, part of the Russian Federation. The Tuvan lands adjacent to the Darhad remain primarily wild and undeveloped. Combined, the Tuvan/Mongolian border area forms a massive untrammeled wilderness in the heart of Central Asia.

Day 12

Following moose tracks allowed for easier trail breaking

The Darhad region is inhabited by a variety of ungulates including moose, elk, roe deer, ibex, Argali sheep, and wild boar. While sign was abundant, wildlife was visually elusive. Much of the area we traveled through is part of the Mongolian system of Special Protected Areas, where in theory hunting is prohibited, yet the wildlife appeared timid and is seldom seen.

Day 13

Rebecca Watters, De Turag River Valley

Rebecca navigates a thawing De Turag River

Day 14

Gregg Trienish leads the way through a long stretch of glacial merrain along the Tengis River

Day 15

A Darkhad herder inspects our skis

For thousands of years skis have been used in Central Asia to hunt and travel. And to this day indigenous cultures continue to rely on the ski during the long winter season.  Since 2005 Nils Larson has been traveling to the nearby Altai Mountains to document indigenous Asian ski cultures.

Approaching the confluence of the Tengis and Shisged Rivers

Day 16

Jim and Gregg thaw out at the Boojum Lodge

We received our second resupply at the Boojum Lodge near the confluence of Tengis and Shisged Rivers. A roof and woodstove was a welcome change. The lodge is operated by Boojum Expeditions, a Mongolian-American joint venture tourism company with offices in Bozeman, Montana and Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Boojum Expeditions arranged all our logistics while in the Darhad Valley.

Jim Harris and and Mongolian Environmental Ranger

With the recent expansion of the Special Protected Areas in the Darhad, 32 Environmental Rangers are now employed full-time to protect the areas natural resources and enforce regulations. These rangers were recently successful in evicting the "Ninja Miners" who'd been illegally mining gold in the Ulaan Taiga Protected Area.

Day 17

Deer Stone, Shisged River

Deer Stones are Bronze Age megaliths often carved with symbols of flying reindeer. Found all throughout Eurasia these standing stones are most common in Siberia and Mongolia. 

Ascending the Ikh Sarag River

Day 18

A Chipmunk makes its home in a Siberian Pine 

A type of white pine, the Siberian Pine needles occur in bundles of five. And like its American cousin —Whitebark Pine— produces cones with a seed popular with chipmunks and Spotted Nutcrackers. These seeds maybe harvested and sold as pine nuts.

Day 20

A heard of reindeer in the Ikh Jacks River Valley

Wild reindeer are rumored to remain in the Ulaan Taiga near the Russian Border. All the reindeer we encountered, however, were domesticated. This was evident from branding and the reindeers comfort with human visitors. The reindeer enjoyed licking the sweat off our hands and clothing.

Rebecca socializes with the local reindeer

After college Rebecca Watters spent two years in Mongolia with the Peace Corps where she learned to speak Mongolian fluently— her language skills were invaluable. Rebecca directs the Mongolian Wildlife and Climate Change Project, which assesses climate-sensitive species such as pika and wolverine in Mongolia, and builds ties between Mongolian and American researchers. An interesting conversationist and writer, Rebecca's interests include anthropology, social justice, wildlife and environmental science.

Day 21

Ortz, Ikh Jacks River

The nomadic Tsaatan reindeer herders live in a type of teepee called an Ortz. Traditionally the outer shell of an Ortz was constructed of birch bark or reindeer skins. Today canvas is commonly used. Like wolverine the Tsaatan are elusive. Throughout the Ulaan Taiga we found evidence of their presence yet failed to make personal contact.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Mid-shelter

Like the Nomadic Tsaatan, I have learned the secret to mobility is going light. With equipment choices similar to last year's Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic, the base weight of my pack (not including food, fuel, and ski equipment) was under fifteen pounds.  A couple notable changes included a prototype Cuben Fiber Hyperlite Mountain Gear (HMG) Mid-shelter and -20º Big Agnus Crosho SL Down Sleeping Bag.

A conical or mid-shaped shelter is a universal design that has endured the test of time. For Antarctic expeditions my favorite shelter is the Scott Tent or Polar Pyramid.  In addition to enduring inclement weather, the space to weight ratio of mids is unmatched.  As a bonus, a floorless design allows the safe and convient use of gas cook stoves. Every morning Jim and I enjoyed breakfast and coffee in bed.

Jim is bright-eyed and bushy tailed in his Big Agnus Crosho SL Down Bag

Recognizing the importance of a good night's sleep on a long and demanding ski tour, we didn't skimp on sleeping bags. Evening temperatures rarely dipped below zero Fahrenheit, yet I was grateful to have a -20º sleeping bag. While keeping sleeping bags warn and dry during a progressive ski tour is often a challenge, Big Agnus has mitigated this some by utilizing water repellent 700 DownTek™ in their Crosho SL Down Bag. 

Snowpack Settlement

Located in the the center of Asia, the Darhad has a continental climate characterized by cold and dry winters. The associated continental snowpack is typically less than a meter in depth and composed primarily of large faceted snow crystals. In addition to making trail breaking challenging, the unconsolidated snow is highly unstable. Massive settlements with displacement of up to 15cm are common.  Recent avalanche activity was observed throughout the tour. As a result we chose a route that avoided avalanche terrain.

Wolverine Tracks

Wolverine tracks are unmistakable. Like all mustelids (weasels), wolverine have five toes, claws, and utilize a distinct 2x2 and 1-2-1 (3x3) gate. While marten and sable also inhabit the Darhad, the large 5-inch wide wolverine print is instantly recognizable. The cold and dry winter conditions are ideal for snow tracking. 

Day 22

 Tsagaan Belcheer of "White Pasture",  Ulaan Tiaga Protected Area

Our last day in the alpine zone included a committing 12-mile traverse across the Tsagaan Belcheer or "White Pasture." Timberline in the region is roughly 6,000-feet and the highest peaks just over 10,000 feet. Although it lacks glaciers, the region is still alpine and rugged. Fortunately the skies were cloudless and the snow was capped with a firm crust — ideal travel conditions. Surreal panoramic vistas, fresh wolverine tracks, and camaraderie created one of the more memorable days of our ski tour.

Day 23

Darkhad winter camp, Khog River

During our final day of backcountry travel we received a warm greeting by the local Darkhad along the Khog River. We had been debating continuing south, but like the Horidol Sardag at the beginning of our journey, the lack of snow made skiing and snowtracking impossible. Instead we exited the Ulaan Tiaga  at the district of Soyu.

A Darkhad Nomad and his grandchildren

Entrance to the Ulaan Tiaga Special Protected Area

The Khog River and Horidol Sardag Mountains

Fording the Khog River

Rebecca approaches Soyu with the Horidol Sardag dominating the skyline

Trails End, the Capital of Soyu

Day 24

Soviet UAZ-452

From Solu to the village of Ulaan Uul we rode in a Soviet made UAZ-452 4WD mini van. Nicknamed the "Bukhanka" or bread loaf, the UAZ-452 is popular throughout Mongolia. Its size, rugged design and high clearance make it possibly the world's ultimate 4WD minivan.  I wish the Bukhanka was available in America.

Mongolian Wolf

The Mongolian or Tibetan Wolf (Canis lupus chanco) is native to central Asia and the likely ancestor of the domestic dog. While often killed by the Darkhad and Tsaatan to protect livestock, the Mongolian wolf population is thought to be stable—we regularly crossed wolf tracks during our ski traverse. In Ulaan Uul a local Darkhad official had captured the above wolf as a puppy and raised it in his yard. The canine was highly agressive indicating that the domestication of wolves was a lengthy multi-generational process. 

Ulaan-Uul

Ulaan Uul translates as "Red Mountain" and with a population of 3,726 people (for the entire district)  is the largest village in the Darhad.

 A Darkhad mother, Ulaan Uul

While the Ger is the primary shelter for the nomadic Darkhad, cabins are popular in the permanent settlements.  These cabins are constructed from larch, the dominant tree species throughout the Darhad.

Ulaan Uul and the Horidol Sardag

Day 25

Jason Wilmot, Munk-Orgil, Forrest McCarthy, Tumursukh, Rebecca Watters, Gregg Trienish 

& Jim Harris

On our final day in the Darhad we had the honor to meet -Tumursukh- the great conservation hero of northern Mongolia. As the Director of all the Special Protected Areas in the Darhad, Tumursukh has been instrumental in gaining support from both the Mongolian Parliament as well as the local Darkhad and Tsaatan for the permanent protection of the region. Possessing a college degree in wildlife biology, Tumursukh is tasked with the management of the Special Protected Areas. A Darkhad himself, Tumursukh resides in Ulaan Uul. His wife Munk-Orgil holds a college degree in economics and manages a local ecotourism company.

A sign at the entrance to the Darhad promotes the Special Protected Areas and their wildlife

The Route

View Darhad Traverse in a larger map

Map of the Darhad Ski Traverse

by Jim Harris

Starting in late March we covered approximately 230 miles in 24 days, by foot and ski.  Our route was inspired by a 2011 Russian Expedition that included Kostya Beketov, Dima Smolianinov, Jura Galachyants, and Glory Zav'yalov. Starting during the frigid weather of February these hearty Russians completed a similar 261-mile ski traverse of the Darhad in 22 days.

We, unfortunately, encountered difficulties in obtaining the permit required to follow the Russian's route that closely paralleled the Russian border (maybe it is easier for Russians to get the permit?). We also had different objectives. Our primary objective was a wildlife snow track survey not a ski mountaineering challenge.

Regardless, and no matter the route or objective, a ski traverse of the Darhad is truly an amazing opportunity to experience one of the Earth's remaining wild places as few others have. I would gladly do it again.