Largo Verde, Lago Jeinimeni National Reserve
In Chile’s sparsely populated Aysén Region eons of glaciation have sculpted countless mountains, rivers, lakes, channels and fjords. Until the construction the Carretera Austral (Route 7) in the 1980s, the only overland routes through the region were extremely primitive tracks. Remote and wild, the region remains primarily untrammeled and in many parts guanacos outnumber people.
Rio Mayer and the Cordón Villa O'Higgins
Having spent a month exploring Patagonia's popular Los Glaciares and Torres del Paine National Parks, I was eager to leave the "Gringo Trail" and experience a wilder and more remote Patagonia.
Cerros Castillo Nacional Park
My journey begins just before Christmas on Sky Airline's weekly direct flight from Punta Arenas to Balmacede near Coyhaique, the region's capital. From the airport I walk and hitch-hike across the Patagonian Pampas to the start of the Cerro Castillo Trek on the Carretera Austral. Located in the rain shadow of the Andes, the arid landscape and big skies, where broad plains give way to rising mountains, I reminisce about my home state of Wyoming.
That evening, as a late and slow solstice sunset illuminates the pinnacled Cerro Castillo in pink and orange pastels, I follow an old logging road for several hours along the Río Blanco toward Estero La Lima.
Upper Río Turbio
The following morning I stop briefly to visit the local Park Ranger and pay a small entrance fee of $4 USD. Afterwards, in the upper reaches of Río Turbio, thick forests of Lenga Beech give way to a broad alpine valley with panoramic mountain views of the 138,164-hectare Cerro Castillo National Park.
Pasada Peñón
I follow a maintained trail up the left fork of the river's headwaters to the 4,767-ft. Pasada Peñón that separates the Río Turbio from Estero el Bosque.
Pasada Peñón
Lingering snow fields cover much of the loose scree and provide a pleasant and efficient traveling surface.
Estero el Bosque
On the far-side, while descending into Estero el Bosque, I pass a local Chilean guide who patiently leads his client through a long loose section of talus and scree.
Campo El Bosque
Stopping for lunch near a clear creek beside the scenic developed campsite in Estero el Bosque I admire the rugged limestone architecture of the Cordillera Castillo.
Lechucita Pampa (Athene cunicularia)
Nearby a Lechucita Pampa or Burrowing Owl watches me with equal curiosity.
Laguna Cerro Castillo
The track climbs efficiently from Campo El Bosque to Laguna Cerro Castillo where the broad and commanding south flank of Cerro Castillo dominates the alpine landscape.
Morro Rojo West
Above Laguna Cerro Castillo the track becomes more of a route and steeply ascends treacherous talus to a broad barren saddle between Morro Rojo (Red Nose) and a 5,500'+ peak to the west.
Valle Ibañez
Looking south from this high ridge, I view Ville Castillo and watch the Río Ibáñez meander its way into the massive Lago General Carrera. Despite an uncomfortably strong wind, I stop and use the opportunity to scout the river that tomorrow I intend to paddle.
Valle Parada
The route into Valle Parada descends a steep and loose scree gully to the northwest. Just above timberline I follow a newly marked route that contours north along the western flank of Cerro Castillo. Despite the large rock cairns this high route into Valle Parada has seen little traffic and requires delicate route-finding across rock slabs, talus and alpine tundra.
Campamento Nueva Zelandés
The high route eventually descends to Campamento Nueva Zelandés (Camp New Zealand) named for a group of intrepid Kiwis who used it as a base to make many notable first ascents of nearby peaks.
Surrounded by glaciers and jagged peaks the lush campsite is a natural mountain cathedral and a delightful place to spend Christmas Eve.
Pea Flowers (Adesmia lotoides)
On Christmas morning I follow the well maintained low trail down Valle Parada. In between stands of Lenga Beech lush open meadows are sprinkled with a variety of colorful wildflowers including wild peas.
Fox (Zoro Colorado) Scat
There's also evidence of local fauna including a scat likely left by a Zoro Colorado (Lyncalopex culpaeus) or Red Fox. Cerro Castillo National Park is also known as a refuge for Patagonia’s endangered Huemul Deer. Unsuccessfully, I search for their tracks along the muddy trail.
Hacienda Hueitra
The Valle Parada Track ends on dirt road that accesses a beautiful hacienda owned by the Hueitra family. The Río Ibéñez flows silently nearby.
Río Ibáñez
Cordillera de Avellanos
With the exception of two notable sections the Río Ibáñez (Class 2) flows leisurely between the Cordillera Castillo and Cordillera de Avellanos. Glacier-fed, the river runs to the southeast and the prevailing westerly wind is at my back.
"Garganta"
At the small town of Villa Cerro Castillo the river makes a sharp turn to the south where it has cut a narrow gorge. The entrance rapid looks doable (Class 3?) but the river fills the gorge wall to wall and I know from Google Earth there's more whitewater below. Traveling solo without proper whitewater safety equipment I decide to portage. While portaging I'm able to scout the rest of the beautiful limestone gorge where I note another significant rapid that also appears Class 3 in character. I lament my decision and consider going back to run it but instead commit to someday return.
Salto Ibáñez
Afterward, the river flows south to Lago General Carrera. While paddling through several "lagunas" the current is barely noticeable. A powerful downriver wind, however, propels me rapidly towards the unnavigable Salto Ibáñez where the massive Río Ibáñez spills violently down two Class 6 drops. I portage on river right.
As I paddle towards Lago General Carrera, the wind becomes increasingly powerful and I prudently exit before the lake and walk an easy mile into the rustic cow town of Villa Ibáñez. At a local "hostería" I find friendly faces, a hot shower, soft bed, and bife chorizo for Christmas dinner. Feliz Navidad!
The following morning I board the ferry ($4 USD) and cross Lago General Carrera (the second largest lake in South America) to the border town of Chili Chico. While on the map it looks viable to packraft across the massive glacier carved lakes that straddle the Argentina/Chilean boarder, in reality the power of the winds that characterize these lakes is to great for a packraft.
Lago Jeinimeno National Reserve
A popular stopping place for travelers connecting Chile's Carretera Austral to Argentina's Highway 41, Chile Chico provides the perfect spot to resupply and stock up on food and fuel for the longest leg of my journey where I will hike and paddle 175 miles across the Andes to the Pacific Ocean.
Patagonian Pampas
After hitching a ride in the back of a gaucho's pickup to his hacienda, I walk the final ten miles to Lago Jeinimeni. Again the wide open landscape populated by cows and horses reminds me of Wyoming where plains give way to mountains.
Lago Jeinimeno
Upon arriving at Lago Jeinimeno National Reserve I receive a warm welcome from the knowledgable local Park Ranger. After paying the $4 USD entrance fee the ranger provides me with a map and useful trail information.
The following morning I begin the the 32-mile trek through the 161,100-hectare Lago Jeinimeno National Reserve to Valle Chacabuco. The reserve is home to a variety of wildlife including Geofroys cats, Patagonian hog-nosed skunks, gray fox, Hairy armadillos, guanacos, huemul deer, Andean condors, American kestrels, hued-hued castaño, Austral thrush and Patagonian weasels.
Lago Verde
The trickiest section of the trek is bypassing Lago Verde where glaciers carved sheer walls on both sides of the lake. To negotiate this section and access Valle Hermoso I follow a well-built track that crosses a steep ridge from Estero Gloria to Lago Verde near its inlet. Though minor, the only other difficulty is the many river crossings. While just knee-deep the water is frigid. I'm grateful for my neoprene socks.
Valle Hermoso
From Valle Hermoso a well-marked route leads up a small side drainage to the south. This trail soon reaches a low pass that marks the southern boundary of the reserve. On the far side is Valle Aviles and the future Patagonia National Park.
Future Patagonia National Park
Paso Aviles
Inside the future Patagonia National Park I discover a delightful well constructed trail that wanders down Valle Aviles through a primordial Patagonian wilderness.
Valle Aviles
This newly constructed trail descends Valle Aviles through a fantastic montane landscape to Valle Chacabuco.
Old Gaucho Cabin
Perviously, the future Patagonia National Park had been the Estancia Valle Chacabuco, a 173,000-acre ranch. In 2003 Conservation Patagonia purchased the property and began the ecological restoration of Valle Chacabuco.
Former Estancia Valle Chacabuco
The future park contains grasslands, steppes, southern beech forests, high peaks, wild rivers, wetlands and a large lake on its southern boundary. All of its original native species, including the endangered huemul deer, puma, lesser rheas, guanacos and the four-eyed Patagonian frog persist.
Rio Aviles
The future national park is one of many land conservation efforts initiated by Doug and Kris Tompkins. To date Tompkins Conservation has protected over 2,000 million acres of wildlands in both Chile and Argentina.
A refuge for both wildlife and people, Conservation Patagonia is developing a system of trails and hiking circuits to "maximize visitor engagement with the landscape while minimizing ecological impacts."
Valle Aviles
As I descend the Aviles Valley the ecotone slowly transitions from montane to Patagonia steppe. Near the confluence of the Río Aviles and Río Chacabuco I spend the night in Casa Piedra where an old stone house is being renovated as a park guard station and campground.
Transitioning from hiking to paddling, the Rio Chacabuco provides a welcome rest for my weary feat. From Casa Piedra the small river runs leisurely (Class 2) for 20 miles to a Class 4 gorge near the future Park's Headquarters.
The dirt road that transects the future park and parallels much of the river is rarely visible. Instead a serene landscape filled with wildlife defines the viewshed. A mile after negotiating the exhilarating Class 4 gorge by portaging the two biggest drops, I follow an old two-track to the future Park Headquarters and Lodge.
At the Park Headquarters I meet the welcoming and knowledgable staff of Conservation Patagonia. While nearby is free camping at the beautiful West Wind Campsite, I opt instead to treat myself to a night at the plush Valle Chacabuco Lodge. For a suggested donation of $200 USD I enjoy a hot shower, laundry, dinner, conversation, internet, a down comforter, and breakfast. They even pack me a lunch for the next day's trek over Cerro Tamango to Chochrane.
Banduri Austral (Theristicus caudatus)
Surrounding the Park headquarters wildlife abounds. The unusual anatomy of Banduri Austral or Black-faced Ibis is especially fascinating.
Guanacos (Lama guanicoe)
After ten years of ecological restoration much of the valleys wildlife is thriving. Herds of guanacos are common and frequent the Park Headquarters and Lodge. No longer molested by humans, these wild llamas are habituated and a delight to see up-close.
Puma (Puma concolor) Skat
Guanacos are the primary prey of the Patagonian Puma. Thanks to the work of Conservation Patagonia, these mountain lions are also making a comeback in Valle Chacabuco.
Following my delightful visit to the Park Headquarters I follow the well constructed Lagunas Altas Trail south to Tamango National Reserve.
Tamango National Reserve
Cerro Tamango
The center piece of Tamango National Reserve is 5,650-ft. Cerro Tamango. An unmarked but well constructed spur trail leads from the Lagunas Altas Trail to a broad saddle between Cerro Tamancuito and Cerro Tamengo. From the saddle, rocky low angle slopes lead to Temango's summit and commanding views of Valle Chacabuco, Valle Chochrane and the Río Baker.
Similar to Lago Jeinimeno National Reserve and the future Patagonia National Park, 460,000-acre Tamango National Reserve was established to protect important wildlife habitat. In addition to guanacos and puma, the reserve is home to one of the largest populations of huemul deer.
Valle Chochrane and the Cordon Esmeralda
After descending back to the saddle I continue south following a well marked trail through an enchanting forest of Lenga Beech (Nothofagus pumilio) to Laguna Tamango and a guard station. From the "guardía" a dirt road leads to the small cow town of Chochrane.
Río Baker
The municipality of Cochrane (population 2,217) was founded in 1954 but didn't have road access until 1988, when the Carretera Austral (Route 7) was opened. With only a few small villages to the south, Cochrane remains the southernmost significant town along Chile's Southern Highway.
Chochrane is well-known within the international kayaking community for its proximity to world-class whitewater including the upper Río Baker and Río Chochrane. A passion for paddling wild rivers has diffused to locals leading to the establishment of the Kayak Club of Chochrane.
Despite the growth in tourism and recreation, Chochrane remains primarily a agricultural town and their proud gaucho culture endures.
After a night in a friendly hostería I pick up more supplies and walk a few miles north along the Carretera Austral to the put-in for the lower Río Baker.
Río Baker and the Cordon Los Ñadis
The lower section of the mighty Río Baker (40,000 cfs) runs eighty-three Class 2 (3) leisurely miles to the Pacific Ocean and the small coastal village of Caleta Tortal. Upstream of the put-in is the site of a proposed dam that if constructed would forever diminish the wild character of this majestic free-flowing river.
"Salto"
Midway down the lower Baker is one mandatory portage where the river is pinched between Cerro Caña Bravo and the Cordon Los Ñadis. The short treacherous gorge is easily portaged on river left via a well used stock trail.
Packrafting the Río Baker
Packrafts are the perfect tool for adventure travelers wanting to explore the mountains, rivers and wilderness of Patagonia. Being amphibious and traveling light allows the creative explorer to link the region's many trails and rivers.
Other than two manageable Class 3 rapids the only other obstacle is a prevailing westerly up-river wind. Patagonia's notorious winds are most powerful in the summer when the Patagonia Pampas is heated by the strong austral sun. The high pressure created by this rising hot airmass draws the wind from the westside of the Andes where the climate of Patagonia's Pacific Coast is is characterized by moist cool air and low pressure.
"Barcos de Pesca"
I'm fortunate during my two days on the Baker to have settled low pressure and a light rain. The cool wet weather means little wind and I make steady progress. On the afternoon of my second day I reach the Pacific Ocean and paddle directly into the harbor at Caleta Tortel.
Carretera Austral
Carretera Austral or "Southern Highway"
The government of Chile has spent 30 years and over 300 million dollars constructing the Carretera Austral (Route 7). While generally in good condition, the southern most reaches remain narrow, unsealed, rocky and occasionally treacherous.
An Unlucky Vehicle on the Carretera Austral
On New Year's Eve one unfortunate driver looses control of his vehicle and plunges several hundred feet into a creek. Amazingly the driver survives with only hypothermia.
On New Year's Day I hitch a ride from Tortel to Puerto Yungay with a local police officer on route to photograph the crashed vehicle. At Puerto Yungay a free ferry shuttles vehicles, bicyclists, and occasional trekkers across Estero Michell to Rio Bravo where the Carretera Austral continues to its most southern point—Ville O'Higgins.
I'm the only passenger on the morning ferry. On the far side I resort to walking for 20 miles along the highway before the afternoon ferry delivers several vehicles and I successfully hitch a ride for the remaining 35 miles to Ville O'Higgins.
Hacienda
Fortunately the weather is relatively pleasant and the scenery superb. I entertain myself scouting potential packrafting rivers like the Río Bravo and photographing the occasional Hacienda.
Mushrooms (Psilocybe cubensis?)
Regardless, after 20 lonely miles these roadside mushrooms looked strangely appealing.
Lago O'Higgins
Founded in 1966, the Carretera Austral reached Ville O'Higgins in 2000. Today the small village is home to only 500 residents. On arriving late in the evening January 1st, I learn the ferry across Lago O'Higgins would not be running again until the 4th.
After setting in to the cozy El Mosco Hostel I spend the two extra days exploring the surrounding countryside.
On the first day I complete a short but highly scenic packrafting loop on a 12-mile section of the Río Mayer.
Lago Claro
On the second day I rent a mountain bike ($15 USD) from the friendly folks at the Robinson Crusoe Deep Patagonia Lodge.
Pasarela Pilchero, Río Mayer
A newly constructed spur of the Carretera Austral heads east for 30 miles following the route of an old "gaucho trail" along the Río Mayer to eventually connect with Argentina's Highway 81.
Gaucho, Río Mayer
The lonely road provides an enjoyable ride. Above the private lodge on Lago Claro the only other travelers are five horses, a gaucho and his dog.
On January 4th I ride the O'Higgins Ferry ($85 USD) across the massive windy lake to Candelario Mancilla where the Chilean Boarder Police inspect my passport.
Candelario Mancilla
The route, however, is a popular for backpackers and cyclists connecting the Carretera Austral with Argentina's Highway 23.
This ambitious German couple are riding from Alaska to Teirra del Fuego.
El Chaltén, Argentina
Paso International
At Paso International I re-enter Argentina where the graded two-track turns into a muddy single track.
The trail winds in and out of large stands Lenga Beech. Despite having spent countless miles walking through forests of Southern Beech, it nevertheless, feels exotic and magical.
After five miles the trail reaches the shores of Lago Desierto where the border patrol stamps our passports and the cyclists board a ferry. I had been hoping to paddle across the lake but strong winds flowing off Patagonia's Southern Ice Cap disagree. Alternatively, I follow a rugged single track along the lake's eastern shore. After hiking two-thirds of the way around the lake the winds ease and I decide to paddle. At the lakes outlet and the beginning of Río de las Vueltas I camp for the night at Punta Sur.
Having previously paddled the Río de las Vueltas with Moe Witschard in November, I'm back in familiar territory. Again, I make the two mandatory portages near Lago Desierto and enjoy the highly scenic and leisurely Class 2 (3) float to El Chaltén.
Cerro Fitzroy provides a familiar and welcome landmark.
Flamenco Austral (Phoenicpterus chilensis)
In addition to the massive vultures at Lago Condor I pass several Pink Flamingos.
El Chaltén, Argentina
That afternoon I arrive in El Chaltén and head strait for the local ice cream shop and gorge on a liter of Super Domo gelato. The following morning, after a hot shower, I begin my two day bus ride back to Punta Arenas. During the long bus rides I can't help dreaming of returning deep into Patagonia.
In nine days (during a two-week period) I paddled and hiked over 266 miles through the wilderness of Central and Southern Patagonia. In addition, countless miles were walked while unsuccessfully hitch-hiking. Additional miles where logged during a 12-mile packrafting excursion and a 56-mile mountain bike ride when delayed in Ville O'Higgins.
“No conscientious traveler turns homewards on the route by which he came if a reasonable alternative offers itself.” - Bill Tilman
“No conscientious traveler turns homewards on the route by which he came if a reasonable alternative offers itself.” - Bill Tilman
Nice trip Forrest and an enjoyable report.' must have taken a lot of research. I hope to use your info soon.
ReplyDeleteThanks and best wishes
I will be traveling to Patagonia soon for a long-distance backpacking trip and I am struggling to find 1:50,000-1:100,000 topo maps of the region. What sources did you use?
ReplyDeleteNathan
The 1:50k quads are not only hard to acquire, they are out of date and not particularly accurate. Better to use digital maps. You can always print them. My favorite source is Gaia GPS - www.gaiagps.com
DeleteHi Forrest,
DeleteIm in Chile Chico and planning on hiking though Jeinimeni, parque patagonia and tomango, im really struggling to find infomation about the spur and route between the lagunas altas trail and down through Tomango, do you have any pictures or a rough location of where it is on the lagunas altas loop? Any help would be great. Oli
Your help would be great.
DeleteIncredible trip! Thanks for sharing the story
ReplyDeleteCerros Castillo Nacional Park and Río Ibáñez is amazing. These are beautiful places. If you want to visit these places then book patagonia tours
ReplyDelete