This November I joined Ice Axe Expeditions for my third journey to the Antarctica Peninsula for ten action packed days of skiing, wildlife, glaciers, exploration and fun.
The brainchild of Douglas Stoup, the Adventure Cruise is organized by Ice Axe Expeditions in cooperation with Quark Expeditions. This was my third-time working a ski guide on this annual event.
Our journey began in Ushuaia, Argentina. Located on the southern tip of Southern Patagonia or Tierra del Fuego, Ushuaia is known as the world's southern most city.
Before we depart several days are spent training on the Martial Glacier just outside of the city limits.
Day 1: Beagle Channel
Day 2: Drake Passage
"The Drake Lake"
Known for its hurricane force winds, crossing the Drake Passage has a well-earned reputation for rough seas. We are fortunate on our way south to have pleasantly calm weather. On our return, we are less fortunate.
Day 3: Chiriguano Bay
Sea Adventurer at "The Farm"
A good landing, moderate terrain, and sunny skies make for a great first day of skiing in an area of Chiriguano Bay known as "The Farm."
Our daily ski outings start where we can both land a Zodiac and access the glaciers above.
Often the most challenging parts of a ski tour on the Antarctic Peninsula is ascending the first couple hundred feet above the sea where conditions can be icy and exposed.
In the afternoon we go for a Zodiac cruise to check out some local icebergs and other seaside attractions.
Remains of a Minke Whale
Day 4: Demoy Point
Strong 50-mile per hour winds greeted us on our second day of skiing on Weincke Island where the historic Demoy Point Hut and several penguin rookeries are located.
Our Zodiac driver dresses appropriately for Antarctica's extreme weather.
We are transported each day in Zodiacs piloted by the highly experienced and knowledgeable Quark Expedition Team. These inflatable motor boats provide the ideal craft for navigating the peninsula's choppy seas and rocky landings.
Gentoo Penguins nest on low hilltops or open beaches. Constructed with pebbles, the nests are fiercely defended.
That afternoon our ship heads further south toward the entrance of the dramatic Laimaire Channel where we're stopped by a strip of impassable icebergs and pack ice.
Day 5: Paradise Bay
Located on Antarctica's mainland González Videla Base is named after Chilean President Gabriel González Videla, who, in the 1940s, became the first chief of state of any nation to visit Antarctica.
The Chilean Base is also the location of another Gentoo Penguin rookery. Gentoo's have white patches that extend from their eyes to a bright red-orange beak and prominent tails that stick out and sweep from side to side as they walk.
Glen Poulsen and his Ladies, Paradise Bay
November is springtime in the Antarctic and both weather and snowpack are maritime. The result is low avalanche danger and snow surfaces that range from spring corn to hard ice to "polar powder."
"Polar Powder"
Antarctica is not only the coldest continent, it is the driest. Considered a polar desert the continent as a whole receives an average of only 6.5 inches of precipitation per year. The Antarctic Peninsula, however, is the region's "Banana Belt" and its climate is mild in comparison to the interior. Located nearby on Anvers Island, Palmer Station's annual mean temperature is a balmy 27°F and receives an annual average of 13 feet of snow and 30 inches of rain.
Route along the Northwest Coast of the Antarctic Peninsula
Day 6: Enterprise Island
Gouvernøren I, Enterprise Island
Our ski plans are stymied by inclement weather. We opt instead for a Zodiac cruise to visit the shipwrecked Gouvernøren I on Enterprise Island. The largest of its class, this Norwegian whaler and processing plant caught fire and was abandoned in 1916.
Day 7: Livingston Island
Located north of the Peninsula in the South Shetland Islands, Livingston Island contains some of the regions best ski terrain.
This is second year my friends Margot Snowdon and Yves Desgouttes from Jackson Hole joined me for the Antarctic Adventure Cruise.
They enjoyed last year's Adventure Cruise so much that this year they brought their daughter Ariana with them.
Ariana captured this photo of a Leopard Seal. One of the most dangerous animals in Antarctica, the aggressive predators feed on other seals, penguins, fish, and krill.
Our group of five is rounded out by Ice Axe Expeditions' own Karyn Stanley.
Per Ås Takes the Plunge
That afternoon many of the passengers indulge themselves in the "Polar Plunge."
Video by Quark Expeditions
Day 8: Admiralty Bay
Unnamed Peak in Admiralty Bay
The largest of the South Shetland Islands is King George Island, which includes Admiralty Bay and many fantastic ski objectives. Yves and I make an afternoon descent of the couloir on looker's right.
Day 9 & 10: Drake Passage
On our return to Ushuaia, the Drake Passage delivered with 30-foot swells and winds over 120 mile per hour, conditions that rated 12 on the Beaufort Scale.
2014 Antarctic Peninsula Adventure Cruise
Video by Quark Expeditions
“Glittering white, shining blue, raven black, in the light of the sun the land looks like a fairy-tale. Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak, crevassed, wild as any land on our globe, it lies, unseen and untrodden.”
Video by Quark Expeditions
“Glittering white, shining blue, raven black, in the light of the sun the land looks like a fairy-tale. Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak, crevassed, wild as any land on our globe, it lies, unseen and untrodden.”
These trips are always amazing to see, but they beg the question, is it hypocritical for an ambassador of WWA to embark on a motorized, extravagant ski trip to arguably on of the most pristine places on earth? Is it contrary to the authors values regarding climate change to repeatedly embark on an around the world trip for the pursuit of recreation alone? Sorry for the critical assessment, but I just don't understand how trips like this are justified in the face of the authors values.
ReplyDeleteI appreciate your criticism and you raise important questions about the environmental impacts of trips like these. As for the impact to the pristine snowy landscape of Antarctica - all of our terrestrial travel was on glaciers, ice and snow. We left only ski tracks that will vanish during the next storm. As for accessing them we traveled the same seaways that motorized vessels have been traveling since whalers arrived a century ago. From a wildlands standpoint I see little difference between riding a motorized boat along coast of the Antarctic Peninsula and driving to a nearby Wilderness or National Park. At least the motorboat does not require road construction.
DeleteYour point about the impact to climate is a better one. I have participated in more than twenty expeditions to the Antarctic. The majority of these were scientific expeditions. And the purpose of many of these was to collect information on the history of the earth’s climate and examine the impacts of climate change. Hypocritically, the carbon footprint of these expeditions was immense. Many believe, however, the knowledge we gained justified the means.
It becomes harder to justify the carbon footprint of what's essentially a pleasure cruise. Though I do believe that the future protection of the Antarctic requires champions and the more people that experience the sublime beauty of the southern continent the more champions we will have for its protection.
We probably agree that there are many reasons modern society should take action to reduce our carbon emissions. We might also agree that the opportunity for the privileged few (that includes myself) to go skiing is not at the top of the list. Yup, I’m a bit of a hypocrite on this one and you rightfully called me out on it. I will say, however, having spent years in the Antarctic working on scientific research projects it was a hell of a lot of fun to go ski slopes I've always dreamed of skiing. Guilty as charged.
Great post it is more helpful. The post about antarctic peninsula is great scholarship essay writing service
ReplyDelete